Contemporary Mokume Gane Jewelry created by Eric Burris.


Mokume gane, a metalsmithing technique born out of japanese sword-making translates into english as "wood eye metal".

It is a time consuming process where two or more different metals are alternately stacked, clamped, and heated to high temperatures. The result is the lamination of all surfaces into a solid mass of metal, called a billet.

The billet is prepared for patterning by hand forging to half its original thickness. The pattern is started by carving through layers and forging the billet even thinner, or by bumping the surface and grinding through the top few layers. In both cases a very organic woodgrain pattern appears; also the billet is now usable as sheet metal and can be formed, forged, and soldered.

Another process for patterning, typically used to make ring stock, starts with a square rod cut from the thick billet. The rod is then twisted tightly and forged back square. At this point more grinding and forging can be done or the rod can be cut in half lengthwise-to reveal a completely different pattern.

I make all of the mokume gane in my studio. I use a small refractory brick forge designed by Steve Midgett and a propane/oxygen torch. This system consistently allows me to produce 1" x 1", 15-21 layer billets. I like the combination of fine silver and copper because the copper takes a nice patina which contrasts white colored fine silver.